When the prospect arose of having more time in Bulgaria than we had originally anticipated I decided it might be cool to do a day trip from the capital. It didn’t take long before my google searches turned up the UNESCO listed Rila Monestary and the photogenic Rila National Park.
Both were about 90 kilometres or 1.5 hours from Sofia and having a rental car meant we might be able to squeeze both in in a day.
So on Friday the 16th of October, we set off after breakfast, heading south towards the Rila mountain range and the largest national park in Bulgaria.
Similarly to our adventure to the Buzludzha Communist Monument, and despite our research, we didn’t have a great deal of information about what we were doing. We knew we wanted to do a hike in the mountains – and understand that there was a fairly easy one that lasted about 4-5 hours.
We also knew that we had to make our way to Panichishte – a ski resort about 1000 metres up the mountain – to take the chairlift up to the bottom of the hike.
We we neared Panichishte it was only thanks to the eagle eye of Larissa that we noticed a tiny sign directing us to a Visitors’ Centre.
We continued a little way along the road before we found it. When we arrived the place was deserted except for the creepy old man chopping fire wood outside. We legged it out of the car and went inside for a look. There was all sorts of information on the location, environment, ecosystem and animals inside the centre, but not a soul. That’s until the old man came in. He started speaking to us in broken English and we worked out he was either working there or at least holding the fort while the actually staff were away.
The man showed us a huge model of the mountain range and described where we were and where we wanted to go and the best way to do it.
He warned us to be weary of wolves and bears, sold us a couple of maps, and sent us on our merry way – limbs intact.
We continued another 15 minutes up the road before the came to the chair lift.
It cost us about $14 for a return ride up the mountain and back.
We still didn’t know exactly what to expect when we arrived at the top – but the man in the visitors’ centre told us that the best way to do it was to veer right up the hill – it’d be tough at first then easy from then on. What’s more the route offered the best views.
We took his word for it and so, after a good 20 minutes on the chairlift, and some pretty spectacular views, we arrived up top and started out.
There’s heaps of maps and signs when you get to the top, but we didn’t find it super helpful. It was hard to know where we were, and where we wanted to go, but we threw caution to the wind and head off to the right.
The guy in the visitors’ centre wasn’t wrong about a steep early slog, but it’s nothing compared to what lay ahead.
We made our way up the first steep escarpment, stopping all along the way to take in the scenery and take pictures.
Once at the top there was a long, flat ridge with spectacular views of lakes on both sides. We continued on for a good half hour until we got to another set of mountains. Perhaps stupidly we thought the hard work was all but behind us and, at one stage, even assumed we’d finished the walk. 
I looked on Google Maps and it appeared we had a bit more to go – 600 metres to be exact – which sort of made sense because by this stage I think we’d only seen five of the seven famed lakes.
Ahead of us stood a 45-50 degree inclination – and while it may only be 600 metres to the top – it seemed like those hundreds of metre were going to be a climb/clamber not an amble.
At this stage, half way into our hike, it’s worth mentioning that we were not at all prepared. Warm clothes. Sensible shoes. Food. Water. We were without all of it. Stupidly. But we’d come this far so we figured we might as well continue on and see what was at the top. It was probably another good 30 minutes’ climb before we reached the sixth lake. It’s in a bit of a crater/valley and perhaps less spectacular than the other lakes because it’s hard to get a view of it and the others together.
To the left of the sixth late lay our fate. Probably a 60 degree incline to what we were hoping was the peak.We continued on for another good half hour, slipping and sliding on loose rock and gravel before finally, just about defeated, reaching the seventh lake, and ultimately, the top.
I think it was worth it because the views from the top were sublime.
We were lucky we had a clear day and that we were well above the clouds because we had unobstructed views for as far as the eye could see.
Before long we’d forgotten the challenging climb, and after relaxing for a while and taking thousands of pictures, we mused that we should have done the entire hike – and continued on to Rila Monastery. Another time.
For now we had long climb down ahead of us, and a 90 minute drive to the monastery.
The return journey was a degree easier, but it still wasn’t a walk in the park. Our legs were stiff from being tensed in an effort to negotiate the rocky terrain. And of course, mid way through the walk, the clouds rolled over bringing howling winds and freezing rains. Just what we wanted.
We took an alternative route down, to get a much closer view of the lakes, and while I think it was worth it, I think it probably contributed to our next ordeal.
We arrived back at the chairlift around 1645 to see three workers running for shelter from the rain. I remember finding it mildly interesting, because they probably get worse weather, but thought nothing more of it. That’s until we worked out the last lift down was at 1630 – and the guys were actually heading home. By this stage we were thoroughly defeated. Cold, wet, hungry and with legs like jelly. And now we were stranded. We saw the lift operators get into a jeep and asked them for a lift home but they pointed us into the chalet.
A guy inside confirmed what we’d been dreading – he said the lifts were done until the morning and we could either stay the night, walk down, or try to catch a lift with one of the very few jeeps (two or three, apparently). He said he’s call a tour guide who was coming to collect a group and see if they had room for us.
So we sat, finally having a drink and a snack, while waiting for the outcome of his call. A couple of groups came and went and around 1800 we found the guy again and inquired about a potential lift.
He told us his friend didn’t call him back and we should either stay the night or wander an hour down the mountainside.
It was starting to get dark so we head out without wasting another minute, down the rocky and wet track, following the line of the chairlift.
A good hour later, drenched to the bone and with numb legs and frozen feet we arrived at the car. Shivering and miserable, but alive. 
We fired up the heating, stuffed ourselves with junk food and tore down the mountainside in the pitch black, back towards Sofia.
We made it in plenty of time and even though we were broken and exhausted we headed out for a fitting feast of hearty mountain food.