In one month I managed to cover off a few towns in the northern Thailand (Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai and Pai) before heading down to explore Phuket and Krabi and couple of the islands – Koh Samui, Ko Tao and Ko Phangan. I also did a whole lot of day trips and island-hopping and snorkeling tours.
| Thursday | 6th | Sydney-Bangkok | |
| Friday | 7th | Bangkok | |
| Saturday | 8th | Bangkok | |
| Sunday | 9th | Bangkok | Ayutthaya |
| Monday | 10th | Bangkok-Chiang Rai | |
| Thuesday | 11th | Chiang Rai | |
| Wednesday | 12th | Chiang Rai-Chiang Mai | |
| Thursday | 13th | Chiang Mai | |
| Friday | 14th | Chiang Mai | |
| Saturday | 15th | Chiang Mai-Pai | |
| Sunday | 16th | Pai | |
| Monday | 17th | Pai-Chiang Mai-Bangkok | |
| Thuesday | 18th | Bangkok-Phuket | |
| Wednesday | 19th | Phuket | Island hopping – Racha, Coral & Maithon |
| Thursday | 20th | Phuket | Island Hopping – Khai Islands |
| Friday | 21st | Phuket | |
| Saturday | 22nd | Phuket | Island Hopping – Ko Hong |
| Sunday | 23rd | Phuket | |
| Monday | 24th | Phuket | Island Hopping – James Bond Islands |
| Thuesday | 25th | Phuket | |
| Wednesday | 26th | Phuket | |
| Thursday | 27th | Phuket-Ao Nang | |
| Friday | 28th | Ao Nang | Phi Phi + 4 Islands tour |
| Saturday | 29th | Ao Nang-Koh Samui | |
| Sunday | 30th | Koh Samui | Koh Samui Island Tour |
| Monday | 31st | Koh Samui | Ang Thong National Park |
| Thuesday | 1st | Koh Samui-Ko Tao | Nang Yuan Island + snorkeling tour |
| Wednesday | 2nd | Ko Tao | |
| Thursday | 3rd | Ko Tao-Koh Phangan | Full Moon Party |
| Friday | 4th | Koh Phangan-Koh Samui-Bangkok | |
| Saturday | 5th | Bangkok-Sydney | |
| Sunday | 6th | ||
As per my previous post, Asia has been the focus of my travel adventures since moving home to Australia in 2020.
2023 brought with it my 40th birthday and an opportunity to celebrate in style.
About ten years ago, I’d seen a post about a wedding on social media, in an epic villa in Thailand.
I set about tracking down the place and securing it for my festivities.
The villa is on the millionaires’ mile of Phuket’s beautiful Kamala area.
I reserved the villa for a week and then set about organising a holiday around the week so I could explore some of Thailand.
Apart from six off hours wandering round Bangkok in the middle of the night during a stopover in 2015, I’d seen absolutely nothing of Thailand (and little more of the rest of Asia).
I ended up taking a month.
July 6th
I got a reasonably priced flight ($A1448) and set off on Qantas flight PG4530 at 0950 on July 6th, 2023.
I landed around 1700, cleared customs and immigration and set out in search for a simcard. I had done a bit of research and ended up settling on a TrueMove travel sim card. I think it was about $50 for unlimited data for the month.
Having sorted that, I called a Grab to take me into town to the hotel.
It cost about $30 and took a little bit less than an hour.
The hotel was just off Khaosan Road.
I ended up staying at Chillax Heritage Hotel which was reasonably priced, centrally located and had a nice rooftop pool.
I think Khaosan Road is a good option for a first time visitor, because it’s close to most of the main sites, and the river. There are cooler areas to explore for people who’ve been to Bangkok a few times, but for a first time, Khaosan Road checks all the boxes.
By the time I settled into the hotel, it was evening and so I went for a wander along Khaosan Road before calling it a night.
Friday 7th
I had a bit of a slow start to the day, and after a mediocre breakfast at the hotel, I headed out to explore Bangkok. Walking along Sanam Chai Road, I passed the Grand Palace as well as a number of key temples. You need long pants to go into some of the temple complexes so I decided to initially just explore the area before going into each individual complex.
I ended up wandering through China Town’s Sampheng Market before arriving at the Marine Department on the Chao Phraya River.
I grabbed a drink and decided to take a ferry up the river back towards the hotel. I got off at Wat Arun and after exploring the temple decided to stop and enjoy the grounds for some respite from the sweltering heat (and humidity).
From Wat Arun you can get a cheap, five-minute ferry across the river and then a twenty minute walk back to Khaosan Road.
I went back to the hotel to relax for a while before venturing off again – this time to Wat Saket (The Golden Mount) for sunset.
I stopped to check out the Royal Pavilion – just across the road – before continuing to climb up to the temple.
The temple hadn’t been on my to-do list but I’m glad I went. It was quiet and had a great atmosphere, not to mention the amazing views out over the city.
Just below the temple, I found Penguin Village Chill Bar and had a few (too many) drinks before heading back to the hotel, exhausted.
Saturday 8th
Saturday morning, armed with long pants, I headed back to check out the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon to see the Emerald and Reclining Buddhas.
Coincidentally, an old friend from work happened to be visiting Bangkok at the same time as me, so I met up with him and his partner for a wander around the Palace and temples.
The complex is a little overwhelming and there are a lot of people there, but you’ve got to check it out – it’s all pretty epic.
I spent about three hours exploring the area before heading back to the hotel to recover from my hangover. I had a nap and a swim in the pool before venturing out for dinner.
After dinner, I decided to go and have a look at Chinatown again, this time by night, and from there I walked back to Khaosan Road and then the hotel.
Sunday 9th
Having seen just about all I wanted to see in Bangkok, I decided to do a day trip to Ayutthaya.
I made my way to Bangkok Train Station and bought a ticket to the site. It was only a couple of dollars, and while the train was far from fancy, it did the trick.
The trip took us about two hours and then we hired a TukTuk and driver to take us around.
The done thing is to cycle around, but the weather was turning and we didn’t have a lot of time, so the TukTuk seemed to make sense.
He charged us about $40 and took us to Wat Maha That and Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon.
We got back on a train around 1545 and while it was supposed to be an express train, it seemed the opposite. There were no seats and so we had to stand the entire way.
The train stopped at Bang Sue Railway and by the time we managed to get a Grab back to civilisation, I thought we probably could have taken the metro.
Some other guys we met got a Grab from Ayuttaya back to Bangkok. It only cost them $30 and it would have been much more comfortable (and air conditioned). So next time I’d probably do that. Some people also recommend doing a tour of Ayuttaya, but I didn’t want to be there all day or get cultural overload.
Monday 10th
I had a bit of an early start today in preparation of my trip to Chiang Rai.
I ordered a Grab around 0730 to take me to Don Mueang Airport, about 45 minutes away from Khaosan Road. I arrived by 0800 giving me plenty of time before my 0950 flight to Chiang Rai Mae Fah Luang International Airport.
I ended up going with Nok Air. The flight was about $85 and while it was a basic, budget airline flight, I have no complaints.
I arrived at Chiang Rai at 1100.
The airport is just a short 15 minute taxi ride from the town so I was at my hotel in no time.
Nak Nakara is an OK option in Chiang Rai. It’s big and clean and has a nice pool and gym.
Breakfast is OK too. The only downside, I would say, is, it’s a bit of a way from the action – only ten minutes. But that feels like miles when you’ve got aching feet and you need to go out and find something for dinner.
I spent a bit of time chilling in the hotel before heading out on a longer than expected walk to the Blue Temple – Wat Rong Suea Ten.
The temple is epic and wasn’t super busy. It’s about 6km from town, so not exactly next door, but it’s definitely worth a look.
The Blue temple is sort of nearer to the airport, so if you can swing it, and you have time, it could be worth doing it on your way into town when you arrive.
The White Temple (Wat Rong Khun) is a bit further out – to the south of the city about 15 kilometres.
I hopped in a Grab for the 20 minute drive to the temple. The driver agreed to wait for me while I checked out the temple and to bring me home afterwards. I think it cost me about $20.
The White Temple is also epic – and while I’d heard it can get pretty crazy busy, in the afternoon it wasn’t too crowded.
I was there for about an hour from 1530pm.
I got back to the hotel around 5pm and decided to get some local fare for dinner – so made a bee line to Ribs&Co.
Tuesday 11th
After a leisurely breakfast I ordered a Grab to take me to Mae Yao to visit the Big Buddha at Wat Huay Pla Kang.
The complex is pretty cool. I climbed up into the big Buddha’s head too – that’s not a must-do but if you have the time, why not.
The Taxi driver who took me to the White Temple the previous day recommended I check out Lalitta Café down the hill from Wat Huay Pla Kang.
It’s an Instagrammers paradise – a cafe hidden in the middle of a little man made rainforest. There are a couple of waterfalls and heaps of flowers and plants – if nothing else, it’s somewhere to escape the heat.
Entry is 60THB or about $3 and you get a discount on your first drink.
From Lalitta Cafe it was about a 15 minute Grab to Baan Dam Museum – The Black House.
The museum is just north of the airport and so could also be combined with your taxi into town when you arrive.
Daan Dam Museum is sort of random – it’s billed as the antithesis to The White Temple. I’m not sure what I was expecting but it wasn’t that. It’s an artist/architect’s private collection of erotic art and hunting trophies.
There was a cool feature where you could scan a QR code and some of the paintings would animate.
Back in town I had a walk around the night markets before heading back to the hotel to call it a night.
Wednesday 12th
Around 0815 I left the hotel en route to the bus station in Chiang Rai.
It’s right in the centre of town – about 10 minutes walk from the Nak Nakara hotel.
I ended up booking the GreenBus ticket with 12Go. It cost 271THB, or about $12. The bus left at 0900 and arrived in Chiang Mai at 1245.
I used 12Go a few times and like it because it gives you the exact location of the bus/ferry/train station, and any other relevant instructions.
I got a Grab from Chiang Mai Bus Terminal to the hotel – arriving around 1300.
The Rodman Hotel is a little boutique hotel in Chiang Mai’s old town. It’s pretty chic and cool with a little pool.
Location is decent – about a five minute walk from the action.
I spent about an hour relaxing before heading out for a long walk around Chiang Mai.
First stop – SP Chicken – for lunch. A friend recommended it, and while I didn’t really rate it, heaps of people seemed to.
Just around the corner is one of the city’s main temples – Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan – so that was handy.
I spent some time exploring the temple before heading back to the hotel.
Around 1800, it was time for dinner so I headed around the corner to try the Khao Chow at Coconut Shell Thai Food.
Not quite ready for bed, I had another walk – exploring the perimeter of the old town.
Thursday 13th
I had an early start today so I could meet a friend and former colleague on the outskirts of the old town – for an early morning hike up to Wat Pa Lat.
It took us about an hour and we arrived around 8am.
It’s super quiet and there are pretty good views back over the city.
I think you can keep going up to a temple further up the mountain, but we just did the little one before heading back down for breakfast.
We ended up at The Larder Cafe and Bar – and it didn’t disappoint.
So far all my breakfast adventures had been pretty mediocre since arriving in Thailand – but this place offered the kind of proper excessive big breakfast I’m used to.
After brekkie, I started the not-so-long wander back to the hotel – following the old city walls a bit before cutting in and across to explore some temples on the way.
I stopped to check out Wat Rajamontean which is right on the canal surrounding the old town.
Continuing on, I passed the Three Kings monument – a statue dedicated to the three founders of Chiang Mai.
Next up, I stopped to check out Wat Inthakhin Sadue Muang – a little visited temple just around the corner from the Three Kings Monument.
Wat Phan Tao was next. It’s a very old temple inside the old walled city. Its teak wood viharn was originally a throne hall for a Chiang Mai King.
After that, I was just about all templed out – so went back to the hotel for a nap.
Around 6pm, rested and recuperated, I set off again to explore more of Chiang Mai and its old town.
I ducked into Wat Muen Tum – just around the corner from the hotel.
A few hundred metres down the road I came across the City Pillar Shrine (San Lak Mueang).
Just behind San Lak Mueang is Wat Chedi Luang – The Temple of the Great Stupa – the 14th century temple with its enormous, imposing 282 foot-high chedi.
After wandering around the grounds for a while I decided to head over to Wat Phan On – for a look before calling it a day.
I stopped for an ice cream roll after getting a taste for them in the Philippines and a look at the city walls before heading back to the hotel.
Friday 14th
After breakfast at the hotel, I called a Grab to take me up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.
It’s a big temple complex up on the mountain above Chiang Mai.
I spent a couple of hours checking out the temples before heading back down to the old town for a Chicken Khao Soi at Kat’s Kitchen.
After lunch, I decided to continue to follow the canal around the old town.
I stopped in for a quick look at Wat Rajamontean before continuing on my way.
Around 5pm, I went back to the hotel to get freshened up before calling a Grab to take me to the Anantara for dinner and drinks.
Around 2230 we decided to call it a night so I wandered back to the hotel – checking out the night market on the way.
Saturday 15th
I had an early start, before heading down for breakfast and to wait for the bus to Pai.
It was only a small minivan and I got the front (passenger) seat which was lucky.
The bus was scheduled for 0930 with an arrival time of 1300. In the end they collected me around 0940.
It cost 230TB or about $10.
I booked it with 12Go.
We got into Pai right on time and the walk to the hotel was an easy five minutes.
I ended up settling on the Ai Pai Hotel – and I’m happy I did. It’s in a great location – close to the action, but far enough away to be quiet and relaxing. The pool was fabulous.
Breakfast was probably among the best I had while in Thailand. And the rooms were pretty nice too. All in all, I think it’s a great option if you’re in Pai.
I spent an hour or so settling in before heading out for a walk to Mae Yen – to see the big Buddha. It’s only about 2.5km and the hardest part is probably the stairs up to the Buddha at the end.
Everyone had said Pai was the place to learn if you wanted to try riding a motorbike.
I had wanted to try for a long while and there’s little to no traffic in Pai, and it was only about $5 a day to rent a bike.
I headed down to DragonFly Pai Scooter Rental to rent a bike. By all accounts this was the best and most professional rental place.
It was 100THB for a day – which is literally $5.
You also have to leave a 1000THB deposit.
I rented a bike for two days as I wanted to head out and explore some of the surrounding sites.
Anyway, it only took about five minutes until I crash the bike – which left me shaken, covered in cuts and bruised, and eventually with a 8020THB bill for the mangled motorbike.
It was a trauma, but thankfully it was quick. And it could have been much worse.
Heading back into town, I went to find a taxi to take me to Pai Canyon for sunset.
I think they charge about 200THB to take you there, wait for you and bring you back. And it’s about 20 minutes away.
Back in Pai for dinner, I went out to the walking street to check out the night markets.
I was back at the hotel around 2200 and decided to call it a night.
Sunday 16th
I had an early start and breakfast at the hotel before heading back to DragonFly Pai to pay my dues.
They were super nice about it all, and I was pragmatic, and just wanted it over. So after a trip up to the mechanic’s I was on my way. I went back to the walking street to try to find a car to take me to see all the surrounding sites.
There are heaps of tours around but they seem to tend to go to one set of sites or another, and I wanted to try to squeeze everything in.
I got a few quotes but eventually settled on a driver who charged me 1700THB, or about $75 plus entry, pretty much to take me wherever I wanted to go for the day. He was ready to go then and there so we hit the road around 10 – first stop Sai Ngam Hot Springs.
The springs aren’t amazing but they’re more or less on the way to Nam Lod Cave, so why not.
They’re very natural – you’re just hanging around in warm pools with a slimy, rocky bottom. Entry to the National Park was 400THB ($20) but that also gives you entry to the region’s other national parks.
I spent about an hour chilling in the springs (and soothing my sore limbs) before we were back on the road for the hour-long drive to Nam Lod Cave.
The cave complex was about 500THB ($25) but included a (private) guide and a ride on a bamboo raft so it was worth it I think. It obviously would be cheaper if there are a group of you, but I was flying solo so had to cop it.
The cave complex is pretty good – there are heaps of bats, birds and even a snake (!!).
It’s a pretty cool experience that I’d recommend if you’re ever in the neighbourhood.
We had a quick photo stop at Doi Kio Lom Viewpoint – which is nothing to write home about (perhaps only because of the cloudy weather) before continuing on the 1.5 hour trip to Mo Pang Waterfall.
The waterfalls were pretty cool – with slippery rocks you can slide down.
I spent a while watching everyone else brave the slides before being brave enough to tackle them myself.
Entry was 100THB or about $5 and I was there for about an hour and a half.
About an hour down the road we stopped at Pam Bok Waterfall.
It wasn’t nearly as exciting as the Mo Pang but worth a look if you’re in the area. It’s just a quick stop – I think I was there about 20 minutes and I think it was free – as a part of the national park ticket I bought earlier.
At 1730 we arrived at Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge – which was a highlight of the day. I don’t know why, because it’s just a long bamboo walkway, but the light was so nice and the scenery and surrounds were super nice.
Entry to the Bamboo bridge is 30THB and while it’s marketed as a donation, I don’t think you have much choice in paying.
I wasn’t going to go back to Pai Canyon – having been for sunset the night before, but it was on the way (sort of) so I threw a couple of hundred more Baht at the driver and he was happy to oblige.
The sunset was a dud, but it was worth a try.
We got back to Pai around 2000 in time for dinner and bed.
I settled on a humongous Vietnamese Bahn Mi from the night market and it was worth the wait. It only cost 100THB but did come with a 40 minute wait.
Monday 17th
Today was a long travel day – so I got up early, had my last Ai Pai breakfast before heading down to Aya Service Pai.
I booked with 12G0 and the bus came at 0830 and arrived at 1150. It cost 230THB or about $10.
Everyone complains about the windy road between Chiang Mai and Pai – but I didn’t find it too bad. It’s long, and there are HEAPS of bends, but generally I don’t get car/motion sickness.
For 100THB more they can drop you at the airport, but if I knew then what I knew now, I probably would have bailed on the outskirts of Chiang Mai and got a Grab to the airport. It would have cost more but would have been much quicker. Once you get to Chiang Mai the traffic is terrible, and part of the service is dropping everyone off at their hotels.
Anyway, I got to the airport around midday and had hoped to get on an earlier flight to Bangkok, but it wasn’t meant to be.
In the end, I got my 1440 Vietjet (VZ111) flight to Bangkok which arrived at Suvarnabhumi Airport at 1600.
The flight cost $101.
I got a Grab and it took about an hour back to Khaosan Road where I checked back into the same hotel as I had stayed before my trip to the country’s north.
I had about an hour to relax before calling another Grab to take me to the Mandarin Oriental to meet a couple of friends.
We wanted to check out Sky Bar at the State Tower. It was only about 500m from the Mandarin Oriental so we wandered over around 1930 for an overpriced bottle of champagne ($600(!)).
The views are fantastic but make sure you know what you’re signing up for.
We went next door for dinner to save our battered wallets another blow – and ended up settling on Palate. I can see online now there’s an epic rooftop at the restaurant, but we didn’t seem to know that at the time and just sat downstairs, in the air conditioning.
Around 2330 I headed back to the hotel to call it a night.
Tuesday 18th
I had an early swim on the hotel rooftop, before skipping the mediocre breakfast in the hotel and heading out, instead to meet some friends.
They were staying about 30 minutes away, at the Holiday Inn Express Sathorn over in Silom.
I met them at 0830 and then we wandered up the road to The Commons Saladaeng.
Not a lot was open yet, but we were here to check out Crackhouse, and it didn’t disappoint.
I’m sure my friends wanted to have something more local for breakfast, but I was happy with our choice.
After breakfast, we had a little bit of time before my flight to Phuket, so we wandered down to King Power Mahanakhon building to give the SkyWalk a go.
The rooftop is pretty epic and we had good weather so it was definitely worth it.
There are some deals to be head – so check online before you pay the full amount. I know there was a poster in the lift at the Holiday Inn Express offering a discount.
Anyway, the skyscraper boasts Thailand’s highest observation deck at 314 meters and offers 360 degree panoramic views. The glass floor is pretty hairy, but if you’re brave, give it a try.
The skyscraper is just across the way from the Holiday Inn, so I dropped my friends home before calling a Grab to take me back to my hotel.
It took 30 minutes to get back to the hotel and then I pretty much had to call another Grab right away for Don Mueang Airport.
It took about an hour to get to the airport – so I got there around 1315.
I got on AirAsia flight FD3007 at 1440.
The flight cost me 2748THB or about $120, including the 40kg of luggage I needed for all my birthday costumes.
The flight arrived at 1610 at Phuket, and while the airport process is pretty straightforward, it was a bit of an ordeal to get a Grab.
Evidently, they’re not allowed in the airport and so you have to walk through the carpark and out to the road. Of course, after fighting with a cab driver, the skies opened up and I got drenched.
I eventually found my Grab and was on the road to Patong.
By the time I got in the taxi it was 1730, and it took nearly 2 whole hours to get to the hotel on Patong Beach.
The Bloc Hotel isn’t a bad option in Patong Beach. The location was fantastic – close to the action, but not too noisy. The rooms are decent and clean. The rooftop pool and bar is pretty epic. Breakfast was ok too.
It was 1900 before I arrived, so I spent an hour or so chilling out, before heading out to the famous (and adjacent) Bangla Road to check things out.
Around midnight I returned to the hotel, to call it a night.
Wednesday 19th
I got up early for a swim before heading downstairs for breakfast.
The breakfast arrangement at the The Bloc Hotel involves going to reception for a voucher which is valid at The Coffee Club next door.
It’s not heaps of food, but it does the trick.
A little before 0900 the driver turned up to take me to the port for my island-hopping adventure to Racha, Coral and Maiton Islands.
The trip to port at Chalong is about 30 minutes and you also have a bit of an orientation once there.
In the end, I decided to book the tour with KKday because you could do all three islands. I hadn’t heard of the company before so I was a bit dubious (especially when the driver turned up 20 minutes late) but in the end everything turned out ok.
It cost me $46 dollars for the transfer, day trip and (a very mediocre) lunch.
The speedboat took about an hour to get to our first stop – Racha Island. The weather, and water, was pretty rough, so it made for a wild, and pretty wet ride out to the islands.
As soon as we arrived at Racha Island we boarded tractor trains for a short trip to Raya Father Restaurant. Food was very average, but I guess you can forgive them considering the location.
After lunch we returned to the beach for a swim and sunbake (in the rain) before it was time to get back on the boat for our 1st snorkelling spot – just off Racha Island.
About half-an-hour later we were back on the boat headed for Coral Island. It was another rough ride, but it wasn’t long – only about half an hour.
We arrived at Coral Island close to 1300 and had enough time to explore the beautiful white beach before the skies opened up and the rain started to pour, again.
The weather was warm, so it wasn’t terrible, but it was a bit of a downer.
What’s more, we had two hours there, so it was a bit of a drag.
After Coral Island, I was informed we wouldn’t actually be going to Maiton Island, on account of the weather.
It was a bit of a downer, as I’d only gone with KKday just so I could hit the three islands, but given the weather I wasn’t super bothered.
What’s more Maiton Island is a private island, so it was only a snorkelling stop and I’ve been to plenty of amazing snorkelling spots in my time.
We took advantage of a break in the weather to get back on the boat and head back to Phuket.
We arrived back at Chalong Pier around 1530 and by 1630 I was back at Patong and in the hotel.
I took advantage of the early arrival to get freshened up and head out to find some party supplies for the villa.
I ended up at Central Patong – a luxury department store (looking for, and finding overpriced champagne – ) and ended up having dinner in the food court there.
By 10pm I was back in the hotel, exhausted and ready for bed.
Thursday 20th
I got up early again early again for a swim but the pool/gym was closed so I decided to go for a walk along Patong Beach instead.
I came back for breakfast around 0800 at The Coffee Club.
Pretty much right on 0830 the driver turned up for my speedboat tour of the 3 Khai Islands.
I booked with Klook which was super handy while I was travelling around the Philippines and so was happy to be able to use the company again in Thailand.
The speedboat snorkeling tour of the 3 Khai Islands was with P.H. Marine Tours and cost me $53.15.
Around 0900 we arrived at P.H. Marine Tours HQ which is right on the water near to The Westin Siray Bay.
We had a quick 30 minute orientation before boarding our boat to the first of the Kai Islands – Khai Nok.
We only spent about 30 minutes on the island, which was OK because it’s kind of tiny and it was super a windy day.
About an hour away we arrived at Khai Nai Island. It’s not the nicest island, to be honest, lots of trash and a few shacks posing as restaurants.
We had lunch on the beach and braved the windy conditions to sunbake and swim.
It was hot and sunny, but the wind was crazy.
The people who paid to go to Ko Khai Nui were expected to stay at Khai Nai for a few hours before continuing on their way – but given the size of the island, the lack of things to do and the weather, I decided to bail early and head back to Patong.
We got back to P.H. Marine Tours around 1430 and by 1530 I was back at the hotel.
I took advantage of the early finish to do a bit more party planning as well getting a better-than-expected haircut (at Clipperz Barber) and pedicure.
It was midnight before I was back at the hotel, ready for bed after a long day.
Friday 21st
Today was the big day – all my friends were arriving from around the world for my birthday festivities. I was relocating to the Villa.
I had one last swim at the hotel, before heading down to The Coffee Club fo breakfast.
I also went back up the road to Central Patong to get some last-minute supplies for the party.
Around 1300 I arrived at the Villa, checked it all out before dashing down to Big C for some beer and other booze.
Around 1430 everyone arrived and the festivities began.
We had plenty of champagne by the pool and a photoshoot before an early dinner around 1800.
Saturday 22nd
I got up early for a swim in the Villa’s epic infinity pool before breakfast in the garden.
Seeing as though today was my actual birthday, I’d chartered a private boat trip for the group.
In the end we settled on the Oceana.
I organised the boat with Epic Charters and can’t recommend the company highly enough. They were super helpful with the organising process, and even helped out with some other general questions I had about Phuket.
I had originally wanted to take my friends to Phi Phi Islands for the day but because of the weather, the captain suggested we instead go to Ko Hong, because it was more sheltered.
I was a bit bummed and tried to rearrange the entire week, but in the end I reckoned we’d have fun whatever we did, so we went with Ko Hong.
Epic Charters sent a few minivans to the villa promptly at 0800 for our transfer to Ao Po Grand Marina.
There is a marina closer to the villa, but because of the tides, and the need to use a tender to get our group to the islands, the captain suggested we instead use the marina north of Phuket.
It was a downer because it was a bit further, but no one seemed to mind.
At 0900 we arrived at the Marina and by half past we were off on our way.
The Oceana is a 65ft super lux yacht with plenty of space for people to chill.
It took about an hour and a half for us to get to Ko Hong, but with the champagne flowing, and the music pumping, it didn’t seem that long.
We spent a bit of time exploring Ko Hong’s Lagoon as well as chilling on the beach and in the water before heading back to the boat for lunch.
The staff had also inflated a floating pool at the back of our boat, so that was a bit of fun.
After lunch we continued on our way to Ko Ka Mit – to see the island’s swimming (!!) monkeys.
Next up was Ko Nok – a tiny little island with a big sandy beach. It basically started to rain as soon as we got there so it was a very quick stop.
Our last stop for the day was Ko Yao Yai and Sandbank Beach.
We spent a good hour exploring the island and its beaches. It was still overcast, but at least the rain stayed away.
Eventually, it was time to head back to the marina and then on to our convo of fancy little transfer minivans.
We had a quick stop at Wine Pro Phuket for some (surprisingly) much-needed supplies before continuing home to the villa.
Sunday 23rd
Today was a pretty quiet day, relaxing at the villa and recovering from the previous day’s shenanigans.
A couple of people headed into town to explore Patong, while the rest of us stayed at home to flail in the pool or have a massage.
After a day of chilling, we all shuffled off to get ready for our 1700 photoshoot.
The weather held out, amazingly, and we got some great snaps.
A couple of hours later we had dinner and then retired for the night.
Monday 24th
After a lazy morning at the villa, swimming, sunning and relaxing, we went to get ready for another day on the high seas.
Around 11am our transfers turned up to shuttle us back to Ao Po Grand Marina for our island-hopping adventure to James Bond Island.
The boat we charted today was Siam Princess – a 70 foot motor yacht – organised through Epic Charters.
I wasn’t super enthused by the boat when I was booking it, but it was big and cheap. And when we arrived I soon discovered it was better than I had anticipated. It was massive, with plenty of indoor and out spaces.
What’s more, there were heaps of water toys for us to fool around with.
We also had another photographer, with us all day, so that was a bit of fun.
The rain started around 1300 and so we decided to have lunch before heading out for a kayak around Ko Hong.
I think it cost about 500THB or $20 per kayak (and man to paddle us around) and was worth it. We probably spent an hour or more exploring the caves and hidden lagoons of the island before heading back to the boat to continue on our way.
Around 1600 we arrived at Ko Naka Yai for some more flailing.
The crew inflated a massive slide on the side of the boat and we spent plenty of time playing off that and jumping from the side of the boat.
Another surprise was the inflatable seabiscuit.
I don’t think most of us knew what to expect with that, but it was pretty exhilarating.
Around 1900 we got back to the marina and found our drive for the fifty-odd minute trip back to the marina.
We had dinner around 2000 and then a chilled evening at the villa relaxing.
Tuesday 25th
Today was another day to relax, recover and recuperate at the villa.
Most of us spent the day chilling by the pool, and a couple of people headed back into town to explore.
Around 1700 we had another photoshoot for a bit of fun, and after dinner it was time to get dressed up for our night on the town.
We’d booked VIP tickets for Simon Cabaret, and then headed down to Bangla Road to take in some of the sights, sounds and colourful characters of Patong.
Around 8pm our shuttles arrived (organised through Epic Charters for about 800THB or $35 for two minivans) to take us to the venue. It was only about 10km away from the villa, but I knew how bad traffic can be and didn’t want to be late.
We arrived around 2030 which gave us plenty of time for photos and to enjoy our complimentary cocktails.
The show only went for an hour and a bit and was better than I expected.
It started slow and I had been worried it was going to be cringey, but in the end everyone was happy with it.
Around 2230 we got a couple of Tuk Tuks to take us into town for a look at Bangla Road.
We had a bit of a walk, and a couple of drinks, we even got scammed for good measure, before heading out in search of some coconut ice cream as a nightcap before finding a couple of Tuk Tuks to take us back to the villa.
Wednesday 26th
After five action-packed days, today was our last day at the villa.
We had a farewell breakfast, took a few more final pictures, before the minivans came to take everyone back to the airport around 1030.
I did one last scan of the house to see if anyone had left anything before bidding farewell and heading back into Patong.
I checked into a new hotel – this time settling for Lub D Patong Beach – and had I been in the mood I think it would have been a cool place to spend some time. There was a big pool and bar and heaps of communal areas.
I decided to take a trip in to Old Phuket Town in the afternoon to check everything out and ended up having Korean Fried Chicken for lunch.
I didn’t spend too long – just a few hours wandering around, before heading back to chill.
I did a few chores then headed back to the hotel to relax.
Thursday 27th
I was back on the road again today – with grand plans to traverse Phuket and head across the way to Ao Nang.
In retrospect, I probably should have spent the night in Phuket Old Town because it was closer to the ferry port, but I generally prefer to stay closer to the action, and at the time, I thought Patong was the best option.
Around 0700 I called a Grab to take me to Rassada Pier Terminal.
I booked the ferry with 12Go and while I had been worried about the weather (apparently the rough seas had caused the cancellation of some trips), everything went without a hitch.
The ticket cost me 700THB, or about $30, and it left at 0830 and arrived at Ao Nang at 1030.
In the end we got to Nopparat Thara Pier around 1118 and the cruise company dropped us all off at our hotels. I decided to go with BlueSotel Smart Hotel. It was a TINY bit out of the way, but nothing crazy.
It was close to the beach, just in a bit of a weird location meaning you had to walk the long way around, to get to all the bars and restaurants.
But the hotel had a couple of cool pools, including on the rooftop which was great for sunset views.
I took a minute to relax at the hotel before heading out to find a boat to Railay Beach. It’s the only way to get there, and because it was late in the day I didn’t get a great amount of time to explore, but I was glad I got there in the end.
You go here – to the Ao Nang Longtail Boat Service Club – to organise the trip. It’s at the corner of the two main streets. I think it cost about 100THB each way, or about $5, and took around 25 minutes in a long boat.
It was about 1430 before I arrived and so I spent some time wandering along Railay Beach before taking the (not so) secret path over to Tonsai Beach.
The weather was turning by the time I got there so I had a quick walk before heading back to Railay.
I crossed over to East Railay for a while and continued on to Phra nang Cave Beach before calling it a day.
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I didn’t make it up to the lookout. Everyone said it was super muddy, and difficult, and it’d been a day and I just wasn’t up for it.
Apparently the boats stop running around 1700 and the water was already pretty rough so I thought I had better not push it.
I got back around 1800 and after a quick walk along the Monkey Trail, I made a bee-line for Pure Krabi for a massage.
In the evening I had a walk along the main street, trying to sort a tour to the 4 Islands the following day.
Once I’d sorted that, I headed back to the hotel to call it a night.
Friday 28th
I was sort of bummed when I heard we wouldn’t be able to check out the Phi Phi Islands on my birthday – because of the weather. So when I saw an early bird tour from Ao Nang that combined the four islands off its coast, with an early stop of the Phi Phi Islands, I was pretty happy.
I think it cost 3000 TGB or about $130 for the day including transfers, breakfast, lunch and the tours.
Around 6am the shuttle arrived and dropped me off at Nopparat Thara Pier – just west of the town.
By 0630 we were on our way, cruising by jetboat, back past Ao Nang beach towards Railay Beach to pick up some more passengers.
At 0730 we arrived at Thale Wake for a quick breakfast stop.
The weather wasn’t fabulous, but it was still nice to have a little stop.
After about 45 minutes we were back on the road, so to speak, cruising out to the Phi Phi Islands. We arrived at Maya Bay at 0900 on the dot.
I had worried it would already be too busy, but it wasn’t too bad.
The boat pulls up on the opposite side of Ko Phi Phi Lee from Maya Beach – so after a short walk along a pretty well maintained boardwalk, we saw what we’d come there to see – The Beach.
We had a good hour to explore the beach and take plenty of photos.
It was fairly busy, but not half as bad as I had expected it to be.
And of course there were a couple of bursts of rain, but plenty of sunshine too.
Around 1000 it was time to head back to the boat and continue to adventure – to Pi Leh Lagoon.
I didn’t think the lagoon was amazing, but it was an opportunity to get in the water (you can’t swim at Maya Bay) and to get the drone up in the air.
We had about an hour on the Island for lunch and a quick look around.
I managed to climb up to the viewpoints – which took longer than I had expected. But I got the shot.
I was late back to the boat, being that annoying person who made the entire group wait, but it was worth it, for me.
Around 1300, we were back on the boat en route to Bamboo Island. It’s a pretty small island, but idyllic all the same.
We had about an hour on the Island before continuing on to Ko Poda – closer to Ao Nang. It was about 1500 by the time we arrived and had enough time to relax and swim before heading back to Ao Nang.
At 1700 we got back to the mainland, and while it was still hot, sunny and beautiful, I decided to brave the Monkey Trail again to explore Pai Plong Beach.
I had a really nice sunset on the beach before heading back to the hotel to relax.
Around 2030 I mustered the energy to head back out into the world for dinner – settling on Beats and Burgers.
I had an early night because I had a long day of travel ahead of me.
Saturday 29th
After a quick breakfast at the hotel I got a Grab to take me to the Lomprayah Krabi Office. The trip took 20 minutes – it’s quite a way, and in a completely different part of the island.
I booked the trip with 12Go Thailand – the gift that keeps giving – and it cost me 900THB or about $40. That included a bus trip from the Lomprayah Krabi Office and a ferry from Lomprayah Tapee Pier to Pralarn Pier on Ko Samui. I paid an extra 100THB on the ferry, or around $5, for a transfer from the ferry pier to the hotel in Chaweng.
Screen grab of ticket!
We arrived at the Lomprayah Krabi Office around 0830 and after a bit of stuffing around with tickets and bags etc, we were on the road for Lomprayah Tapee Pier. The trip is about 150km and took a little more than 2 hours.
We then boarded a little tin can speed boat without a toilet, or anything else much, to begin the 90 minute trip to Ko Samui. It was pretty hot and uncomfortable, but it was a relatively quick trip.
We pulled in to Pralarn Pier on Koh Samui around 1400 and then the ferry company sorted out a transfer for my hotel – Chaweng Villawee.
The hotel was pretty nice and new and had an epic pool, but it was right under the flight path. I got some epic snaps of planes flying overhead, but I can see how the novelty would wear off.
I spent a bit of time chilling in the hotel before heading out into the world to explore the beach and the town a bit.
Sunday 30th
I had a bit of a lazy morning today – breakfast at the hotel and a swim.
I was trying to find a tour or driver to take me around Koh Samui after my failed attempt at learning how to ride a motorbike in Pai, meant that was not an option.
Eventually I found a guy with a car to take me around the island. It cost me 2000THB or about $85 for around 5 hours covering the Big Buddha, Chinese Buddha, Namuang Waterfall and Silver beach.
Erez – an Israeli guy who’d moved to Ko Samui – arrived around 1230 to begin my tour of the island.
Our first stop was Wat Phra Yai – or the Big Buddha Temple – a short way away from the hotel.
Just five minutes down the road was Wat Plai Laem – a floating temple featuring a statue of Guanyin – an 18-armed goddess.
About ten minutes further north we got to Thongson Beach for a quick swim. We stayed at the beach for a good hour and a half before heading back to the car to explore more of the island.
We stopped off at Lad Koh Viewpoint for a look at the view back over Chaweng Beach before continuing south towards Na Muang Waterfalls. The falls weren’t the nicest I’ve seen – the water was pretty brown and murky, so I opted out of a swim.
Heading back towards Chaweng Beach, we had a couple of problems with the car which Erez was freaking out about. I was relaxed about it all – I had nowhere to be. I think he gathered the car needed oil, so once we sorted that, we were back on the road.
We grabbed a quick ice cream at Rossini’s before heading down to Crystal Beach for a swim.
Crystal Beach is one of those iconic spots you see all over postcards and in pictures of Thailand – a beautiful white sandy beach. Framed by those massive smooth boulders, and skirted by crystal clear water.
By now, the sun was going down, making pretty nice conditions for a swim.
From Crystal Beach back to the hotel was about 20 minutes so I was back to the hotel around 1800.
Around 2000 I went back to the hotel to relax.
I went down the road for dinner – settling on Gangnam Chicken Shaweng Samui. I bit off more than I could chew, but I gave it a red hot go.
Monday 31st
After breakfast at the hotel, I went back to the room to get ready for my tour to Ang Thong National Park. I ended up going with Five Kings Travel because the girl at the tourism desk outside my hotel said it’s cheaper than the other options but gives you the same experience. They came to pick me up around 0800. The trip to Petcherat Marina was only about 15 minutes, so it was all relatively painless.
Around 0930 we were on the boat and ready to go.
It takes you through the 42 Islands National Park.
Around 1030 we arrived at Ko Wao Noi for our first glimpse of the world beneath the surface in the national park. We had about 30 minutes to swim and snorkel before continuing on cruising through the so-called Golden Basin.
Around midday, we arrived at Ko Mae Ko where we climbed up to the viewpoint.
It was only a five-minute climb, but it was pretty busy – there was a lot of tourist traffic to negotiate.
From the viewpoint you get pretty decent views of Thale Nai – the emerald lake.
It’s pretty epic, surrounded by limestone cliffs.
By the time we got to Mu Ko Ang Thong, around 1430, the rain had well and truly set in.
I made a b-line for the beginning of Pha Jun Jaras and began the long climb up.
The walk up is about 550 metres but it’s steep. There are a few lookouts along the way to rest and take in the views, but it’s still a hard slog. It took me about 30 minutes to get up to the top, and thankfully, the clouds were clearing, just in time.
I think a little kayaking trip was included in the tour, but I missed it because I was up at the viewpoint.
There were also some caves to explore, but I discovered them too late and didn’t know what time we had to return to the boat, so I ended up wasting a bit of time waiting.
We got back to Petcherat Marina around 1700 and I was back at the hotel at half past.
I settled on Gringos Cantina for a bit Mexican for dinner, before ducking next door to the Blue Oyster to see one of its famous drag shows.
Tuesday 1st
I had another early start ahead of the journey to Ko Tao. I left the hotel at 7am for the 20 minute trip back to Pralarn Pier. I had a quick and fairly satisfying breakfast at the pier, before hopping on the boat to Ko Tao.
I booked the trip through 12Go Thailand. It cost me 700THB or about 30 dollars. It was operated through Lomprayah and took an hour and a half.
Randomly, when we arrived, the tide was too low so they made us all stand at the front of the boat so the engines wouldn’t get caught in the sand.
We arrived at Mae Haad Pier just on 1000, and I opted to walk to the hotel. In retrospect I think I should have sorted a taxi because it was a bit of a walk – about 23 minutes – from the pier to the hotel on Sairee Beach.
I ended up staying at the Wind Beach Resort which was fairly close to the action AND I discovered when I arrived, they organised free transfers to the pier. That would have been helpful to know before trudging up and down the hill to the hotel.
I got to the hotel around 1045 and had noticed a few signs for half day snorkelling tours. I had intended on doing a tour the following day, but figured, I had half a day and I might as well use it.
I sorted my washing and had a snack and was back at the hotel with plenty of time, ahead of the 1145 pick up time.
I decided to go with Oxygen Tours and while it was a bit of a big group, and chaotic at times, I got to do everything I had wanted. The tour cost 750THB or about $32, including lunch and snorkelling gear, and I think you had to pay a little bit more to go to Koh Nang Yuan – a little island off the coast of Koh Tao. To get off at the island you had to pay 250THB or about $10.
We were back at the pier around 1210 and it wasn’t long before we were out sailing towards Nang Yuan Island.
We spent an hour and a half on the island before heading back to the boat for lunch.
After lunch we began our trip around the island, stopping every little while to go snorkelling.
First stop was Mango Bay which, with its crystal clear water, was pretty epic.
Next up was Hin Wong Bay – with its friendly colour fish.
We had another swim and snorkel at Tanote Bay.
Last stop, before the weather turned, was Shark Bay – where we were able to snorkel with blacktip sharks and look for turtles.
I think we were supposed to go to Freedom Bay too, but the water was pretty rough and so we just had to battle the waves and gun it back to the port.
It was 1930 before I got back to the hotel and I ended up at La Pizzaria da Claudio for dinner.
Wednesday 2nd
Seeing as though I’d already done the snorkelling tour around Ko Tao – I had today free to explore the island.
After breakfast I had a bit of a walk along Sairee Beach, before heading back south, towards the Pier.
Next up on my walking tour was Jamson Bay – a beautiful sandy little cove, just in front of the Charm Churee Villa Hotel.
Next up, Sai Nuan Beach. This was up and down a BIG hill, and in that head and humidity, it wasn’t the most pleasant walk. But I made it in the end.
I stopped off at Secret Bar to take in the fantastic views before continuing on down to the beach.
Around 1313 I arrived at Aow June Juea, just in time for the rain.
I found a shortcut (probably illegally) to Chalok Baan Kao Bay – by cutting through View Point Resort.
I spent a bit of time chilling at Chalok Baan Kao Bay before continuing southeast to Taa Toh Lagoon Beach.
The beaches on that part of the Ko Tao are epic.
From there, there’s a nice little boardwalk along the coast to Freedom Beach.
It’s absolutely beautiful there, and because I came along the beachfront I somehow managed to evade the entrance fee.
I had a bit of lunch at Freedom Beach Bar before clambering up to the John-Suwan Viewpoint.
It’s not the easiest hike, especially taking into account the heat and humidity, but the views from the top made it worth it.
After chilling at the lookout for a little while, I decided to head down to continue my adventure.
I ended up at Shark Bay for a drink and a paddle, before continuing north to the small, but perfectly formed, On the Rock Beach.
The last stop on my walking tour was Haad Tien Beach Resort.
Thankfully the walk back towards the port was pretty flat, and so much quicker. In search of the ViewPoint
About midway back to Sairee Beach I took a right to head up to Koh Tao Two View bar and restaurant.
I actually got a bit lost when I got to the top of the mountain, and I was sort of tired and over it so decided to give up and return to the hotel.
I met a guy along the way who said I had missed all the good stuff at the lookout, but I was already halfway home so decided I’d need to do it again, next time I was in town.
Around 1900 I got back to the hotel, absolutely buggered, so I had a quick shower and then went out for dinner.
I ended up at Hippo Burger Bistro and had a burger and a couple of cocktails before heading home to bed.
Thursday 3rd
It hadn’t been in my original itinerary but everyone kept asking me if I was in Thailand for the Full Moon Party. It wasn’t my thing at all but Thursday the 3rd of August marked the Full Moon and the (in)famous party was only a short ferry ride away – on Ko Phangan.
So on a bit of a whim, I decided to go.
I had an early start for breakfast at the hotel and a last minute play with my drone on Sairee Beach.
Just before nine, I went back to the hotel for the free transfer (Wish I had known about that when I arrived in Koh Tao arrived in Koh Tao back to the Mae Haad Pier.
I had a 0930 ferry booked with Lomprayah to Thong sala Pier on Koh Phangan.
Once again, I booked through 12Go and it cost me 600THB or about $25.
By 1045 we were sailing into Thong Sala on Koh Phangan and I had organised an 100THB transfer with Lomprayah to my hostel on Haad Rin Beach.
The hostel wasn’t cheap – $60 for a dorm bed – but the location was amazing – right on Haad Rin Beach – the site of the party.
After dumping my affairs – I set out to explore a bit of the island.
The entire place was heaving and the excitement (at least among the young backpackers) was palpable.
Without a car or transport, getting around wasn’t super easy.
I couldn’t manage to work out how the taxis work, so my exploration was limited to where I could walk.
I ended up at the Burger Shack by Senses – Haadrin for lunch.
Around 1700 I went back to the hostel to rest up and relax before the evening’s festivities.
About 2030 I got washed up and ready for the night on the town/beach.
It was all pretty hedonistic – I think there were a lot of drugs about, and heaps of drinking. There were heaps of different DJs playing and fire twirlers.
I even saw a couple of drag shows at Queen’s Cabaret.
I ended up staying out all night, but thankfully I didn’t overindulge, knowing far too well I had a big day of travelling ahead of me.
Friday 4th
Around 0730 I went back to the hostel for a nap before packing up to head back to the pier.
After losing my drone for a brief moment, it was time to hit the road, so I packed up and headed for the port.
At 1030 I was back on the ferry, headed for Pralarn Pier, on Koh Samui. It was another ferry with Lomprayah but only took about 30 minutes. I organised a transfer with Lomprayah for an extra 100THB to drop me off at the airport.
I got to the airport around 1230 and had plenty of time before my 1530 flight back to Bangkok.
I ended up booking with Bangkok Airways, and the flight was 5720THB or about $242.
The airport is pretty cool with a big outdoor mall just next door featuring a few bars and restaurants to enjoy while you’re waiting for your flight. I ended up at Daymoon Bar and Eatery for a steak sandwich before heading over to the terminal to check in.
About 2pm I checked in for flight PG142 to Bangkok.
The plane arrived in Bangkok at 1630 and I ordered a Grab to take me to the Holiday Inn Express Sathorn. Traffic was pretty bad – it took me more than an hour to get to the hotel.
Around 8pm I went for a haircut and one last massage before wandering around Patpong Night Market for something for dinner.
After a long, long day of travel, around 11pm I was ready to call it a night and went back to the hotel.
Saturday 5th
I had a lazy morning at the hotel before heading out for lunch around midday. I ended up at an Italian restaurant – Marco Polo – just down the road.
I had organised a late checkout, so after lunch I went back to the hotel to sort out all my things before calling one last Grab to take me back to the airport.
I got to the airport around 1600 giving me plenty of time before my Qantas flight at 1810.
Flight PG4531 landed at 0625 on the 6th of August giving me just enough time to collect my bags and head home for a shower before heading into work.